For many years I have been wanting to go to the Dolomites on a hiking trip. I had actually originally planned such a trip in the summer of 2020....needless to say, that didn't work out! So, this year, we finally made this bucket list trip happen. We somehow convinced my Dad and Marilynn to join us for the 2 weeks. It ended up being a great trip--the Dolomites really are as beautiful as the pictures suggest!
We left somewhat chaotically on a Friday night--Ethan and I had driven up from LA and furiously done laundry and repacked--and Jason and Alaina came straight off the softball field, via plane from Santa Ana. Unfortunately, we were all also sick, so it wasn't the best way to start. To make matters worse, when we arrived in Milan 15 hours later, Ethan's suitcase somehow did not make it. We were told it was in Zurich, as it had missed our flight to Frankfurt in SFO. We got to the hotel, had a quick bite, and settled in, exhausted.
The next day, we met up with my Dad and Marilynn. Jason and Dad went to get a rental car, and Ethan and I hit the streets of Milan to buy him a few essentials while waiting for his suitcase. Even though it was Sunday, we were lucky to find some open shops, so we were able to get a few items. It was, unfortunately, very hot and sticky.
Our first stop was an agriturismo that I had picked out 4 years ago, called I Vehger near Lake Garda. The place was a small, family-run affair, with decent rooms and a nice pool. Essential for the heat. We spent 2 nights there, and on the second night had dinner at the agriturismo, which was a 12+ course affair that lasted hours. The food was almost all from the farm, which was super impressive. We also took a short boat ride on the second day and checked out the town of Sirmione, which was quite picturesque, though would have been much more enjoyable had it been 15 degrees cooler!

Meanwhile, still no word about Ethan's suitcase. We decided we needed to head to a sporting goods store to buy him the essentials--for example, his hiking boots and raincoat were both in his luggage. So, we bought him a new wardrobe, and called the airline yet again, though they had no more information about his luggage. Our next stop was the Dolomites!
For our hiking trip, I planned out three "loops" during which we went from refugio to refugio. Refugios are mountain huts, some with private rooms and others with dorms, located in the mountains. They provide breakfast and dinner, and a place to sleep for the night up in the mountains. For each loop, I planned a long hike, and a shorter alternate hike each day--the shorter hikes made use of the many chairlifts, gondolas, and even buses in the area.
Our first loop was a two-night loop around Sasso Piatto/Sasso Lungo. We had to drive from Lake Garda and traffic etc made our start a little late, around 3pm.
Our overnight destination was Rifugio Sasso Piatto, about 4 miles and 700 feet of elevation ahead of us. We started out at around 7500 feet, so we definitely felt the altitude. The weather was beautiful though, and the wildflowers in full bloom. We made it to the rifugio just in time for dinner and had our first rifugio experience. The rooms were nice and clean, and the food was decent.
The next day, we split ways from my dad and Marilynn and took a longer hike to visit the Rifugio Alpe di Tires.
It was a beautiful hike, though we made it there too early for lunch, and the next rifugio, which I had planned for lunch ended up being closed. So it was a hungry hike! Our stop for the night was the Rifugio Vicenza, which was located high up in the crux of the Sasso Piatto Mountain. This place got the award for craziest place to build a rifugio. The accommodations were very basic, and although we had private rooms, the walls were very thin, so it felt more like a dorm. The food was forgettable, but the views were really incredible!! Look for the rifugio camouflaged into the rock!

Our next day, we finished loop #1 and returned to our cars.
Dad and Marilynn had a hotel for the night in the town of St. Cristina, but we were unable to find lodging for all of us, so the 4 of us re-parked, repacked, and headed up the Col Raiser Gondola for a night at the nearby Rifugio Firenze.
We found Rifugio Firenze to be much nicer than the night before...and the food much tastier as well. As a bonus, on the way, Alaina got to check out some chickens--she named one "fluffy Gary", as well as some bunnies.
Hiking loop #2 was a three-night loop around the Odles. I knew this loop was going to be a tough one, so I arranged for my Dad and Marilynn to only do part of it with us and spend the rest of the time in town. Our first leg took us along the southern edge of the mountain, past the famous Seceda which was so beautiful, and then down one mountain and up another to the Rifusio Resciesa.


Seceda Heading down from Seceda with Sasso Piatto behind
Rifugio Resciesa was the nicest of all (though the most expensive), and it even had private bathrooms in each room, and we had a beautiful sunset there!


In the morning, we hiked for a bit with Dad and Marilynn, and then parted ways. Jason had injured his back--probably too big of a hike the day before, and was reluctant to stay hiking, but in the end, he did continue. That day was a long and hot hike. We did have lunch in a great Rifugio called Malaga Brogles, complete with fresh buttermilk--which was amazingly creamy and delicious. Along the entire route we had beautiful views of the Odles mountains.


The end of our hike had about a 1000 ft elevation gain, which was challenging given Jason's back and the overall length of our day. Our reward was Malaga Alm--basically a barn where we spent the night with 14 other backpackers and no running water. We were definitely "away from it all". In the middle of the night, Alaina got up to go to the bathroom, and she said that the stars were the most beautiful she had ever seen! The hosts were lovely though and the food quite good considering the location.


The next morning to complete our loop, we had to summit over about a 2000 ft crest. It was a tough slog, though doing it first thing in the morning made it better. Look for the lowest point in the below photos--that is what we went up and over!!

Eventually, we returned to the Col Raiser Gondola and our car. As a bonus, Ethan's luggage was finally found and transferred to Dad and Marilynn's hotel while we were hiking our loop!
A great first week of hiking!